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Ahern & BruckerGoldsmiths

From the Bench · Engagement, Wedding & Anniversary

A Hand-Forged Sapphire Heart Engagement Ring

An 18k engagement ring forged by hand from casting grain around a heart-shaped sapphire, with nothing cast along the way.

Metal
18k gold
Stones
sapphire (heart shape)
A Hand-Forged Sapphire Heart Engagement Ring

Nothing in this ring began as a casting. Carol started with loose 18k casting grain and a heart-shaped sapphire, melted the gold at her bench, and drew it through the rolling mill into the stock she would forge.

From there the ring was built by hand: wire bent and curved around the heart, joints soldered one at a time, a seat cut and fitted to the stone, the setting closed and the whole piece finished at the bench.

The house listed it simply as an 18k hand-forged premium sapphire engagement ring. The photographs of its making say the rest.

The making, stage by stage

  1. Casting grain and the sapphire

    01Casting grain and the sapphire

  2. Melting the gold

    02Melting the gold

  3. Through the rolling mill

    03Through the rolling mill

  4. Forming the wire

    04Forming the wire

  5. Shaping around the stone

    05Shaping around the stone

  6. Fitting the sapphire

    06Fitting the sapphire

  7. Soldering

    07Soldering

  8. Setting

    08Setting

  9. Finishing

    09Finishing

  10. Finished

    10Finished

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