Every piece made by hand, to order, in our American workshopMade by hand, to order, in the USABegin a commission
Ahern & BruckerGoldsmiths
Navy Chief Petty Officer Ring, by Ahern & Brucker

Service Rings

For those who earned the anchor

Chief's rings and service rings made one at a time, by hand, to the standard they represent.

Our service rings began with one Chief. In 2001 we made a ring for Carol's uncle, Retired Navy Chief Patrick Ahern, who had looked for decades for one that properly represented his career. From it grew a limited edition of US Navy CPO, SCPO and MCPO rings, and in time rings for officers, LDOs and Mustangs, Submariners, Marines, Airmen, Special Forces, firefighters, EMTs and Freemasons.

Each ring is made to order and to exact size, in men's and women's sizes, by Master Goldsmith Carol Ahern in our shop in Oregon. They are made in newly refined 18k gold, palladium or platinum, with natural rubies, diamonds and sapphires chosen for cut, colour and symmetry, matched by hand and set individually.

Every ring is offered in three editions: the Basic Edition, without stones; the Standard Edition, with the finest lab-grown stones; and the Premium Limited Edition, with natural matched gemstones. Otherwise the rings are identical. Production is limited to about fifty rings a year, and they are sold only by us, never through stores.

The rings

Men's and women's sizes. Your choice of metal and edition.

Guide prices · October 2024

Choose your metal and edition

Three editions, identical in construction. Only the gemstones differ.

Men's sizes 9½ – 10: price by metal and edition, US dollars
Men's sizes 9½ – 10Basic EditionNo gemstonesStandard EditionLab-grown ruby, diamond & sapphirePremium EditionNatural matched ruby, diamond & sapphire
Sterling silver & 18k$2,271$2,851$4,671
Palladium$5,145$5,725$7,545
Platinum & 18k$6,658$7,238$9,058
Two-tone 14k gold$6,891$7,471$9,291
Two-tone 18k gold$8,647$9,227$11,047
Women's sizes 5 – 8
Priced by metal on request. Standard stones add $400; Premium add $1,450.
Side options (e.g. inlaid warfare badges) — men's
+ $1,100
Side options — women's
+ $990
Stars, each
+ $125
  • Every ring is made to order, to your exact size.
  • Final price depends on the size and weight of your ring and on gold and platinum prices at the time of your order.
  • Premium stones are two rubies, two diamonds and two sapphires; other combinations are available.
  • Shipping and insurance are added at cost.
  • Current lead time is four to six weeks — please order well ahead of a pinning or retirement.
Navy Chief Petty Officer Ring — view 4, by Ahern & Brucker

Anatomy of a Chief's ring

Built, not stamped

Construction
Lost-wax casting and hand fabrication, both by Master Goldsmith Carol Ahern
Emblem
Fouled anchor and USN letters ('Unity, Service, Navigation') in 18k yellow gold; letters capped in milled sheet of the ring's white metal, not plated; a plate between anchor and base for definition and a mirror backing
Pieces
CPO ring 5 pieces; SCPO 6; MCPO 7 (not including the 6 gemstones); Submariner models add 8 pieces
Weight
a little more than 1 oz of 18k in a size 10 1/2
Dimensions (size 10)
4.4 mm thick at top, 1.5 mm at bottom; 17.5 mm wide at top, 8.75 mm at bottom; anchor 15.3 mm top to bottom
Gemstones
6 stones (2 rubies, 2 diamonds, 2 sapphires), each 3 mm for a size 10, approx. 10 to 12 points; hand-set individually after casting, never cast in place; matched for size and colour
Diamond grade
standard VS G minimum; VVS D-E and H&A VVS1 D/E available

Three editions

The rings are identical. Only the gemstones differ.

01

Basic Edition

The ring in solid metal, with no gemstones. The same construction, weight and hand-finishing as every other edition.

02

Standard Edition

Set with the finest lab-grown rubies, diamonds and sapphires — the best that can be made by man.

03

Premium Limited Edition

Set with natural, matched gemstones of the highest grade, each chosen and hand-set individually.

Where it began

Uncle Pat

Patrick H. Ahern, Carol's uncle, was our first CPO customer and the inspiration behind our Chief's ring. Born in Detroit in 1927, he served in the US Navy from May 1944 to November 1968 and retired as a Chief Storekeeper (SKC).

In the Second World War he served aboard the tank landing ship USS LST-641 in the Iwo Jima and Okinawa campaigns. His later duty included USS Roanoke (CL-145), Commander Seventh Fleet Logistics, the Naval Supply Depot at Yokosuka, Japan, and USS Bon Homme Richard (CVA-31). His awards included the China Service Medal (Extended), the American Defense Service Medal, the Asiatic-Pacific Campaign Medal with two stars, the Vietnam Service Medal and the Philippine Liberation Medal.

For decades after he retired, Pat looked for a Chief's ring that properly represented his twenty-four years of service. On a visit he showed us pictures of the rings available, and for every one he had a dozen reasons not to like it. He asked whether we could design one more fitting to his service. His instructions were explicit: "Design a ring that represents the finest in American craftsmanship," one "clearly a cut above the rest being both Distinct and Unique."

The ring we made him in 2001 was two pieces of 18k gold, a white gold centre hand carved by Carol on a yellow gold base, about 37 grams, set with rubies, sapphires and diamonds. It brought him to tears when he received it, and he wore it with great pride every day for the rest of his life.

Uncle Pat
Uncle Pat
Uncle Pat

At the bench

Unretouched photographs from the workshop.

Making a Chief's ring at the bench
Making a Chief's ring at the bench
Making a Chief's ring at the bench
Making a Chief's ring at the bench
Making a Chief's ring at the bench
Making a Chief's ring at the bench
Making a Chief's ring at the bench
Making a Chief's ring at the bench
Making a Chief's ring at the bench
Making a Chief's ring at the bench
Making a Chief's ring at the bench
Making a Chief's ring at the bench
Making a Chief's ring at the bench
Making a Chief's ring at the bench
Making a Chief's ring at the bench
Making a Chief's ring at the bench

From the Goat Locker

All letters →
“The quality, detail and craftsmanship is sure to guarantee this ring will be passed down from generation to generation as the most sought after heirloom in our family. … The ring with the Master Chief anchor and dolphins on the side is elegant and understated and one of a kind, just what I wanted. The ring has a substantial weight but is so smooth and well balanced it is a joy to wear. … Much cheaper rings can be found but this is a classic example of, "You get what you pay for", and I got every penny's worth.”
Craig K. — Submariner Master Chief ring No. 001, after thirty years in the Navy
“I received my CPO ring yesterday and "MY GOODNESS" what a piece; it is absolutely beautiful. I'm so glad to have purchased this ring and so proud to own something like this. I let my wife open the package and when she saw the ring her mouth almost dropped to the floor. … I can't wait to show it off in the Chief's mess! … P.S. Tell Carol she did a fantastic job, and that I appreciate her hard work.”
Chief Darron F. — CPO ring No. 005
“I just received the ring today and it's just AMAZING! The craftsmanship and attention to detail are unbelievable. It's fits perfectly as well and carries a nice weight to it.”
Matthew D. — Premium officer ring with Air Crew and Mustang
“I got the ring over the weekend when I went home for my retirement ceremony. To say the least I was stunned. It is so good looking. It has that understated by elegant look.”
CDR Jeff — Surface Warfare Officer ring, for his retirement
“I just wanted to say that I have waited 10 years for this ring. I have looked at every chiefs ring on the market and was about to buy one of the others, until I saw yours online. … This ring even looked better than the pictures. I cant believe you could get such detail in a piece of jewelry. … Carol you are an amazing artist and should be commended on the fine works of art that you create for us.”
ENC (SW) Mark B., Ret. — CPO ring with ESW badge
“I LOVE my ring!! Its beautiful the hard work and precision are visible in every detail!”
ADC(AW) Claudia Z. — CPO ring

Questions

Asked & answered

What is the difference between the Basic, Standard and Premium Limited editions?

Only the gemstones. The Basic Edition has none. The Standard Edition uses lab-grown stones, the best that can be made by man. The Premium Limited Edition uses natural, matched stones of the highest grade, which carry a substantial premium. Otherwise the rings are identical.

How do the men's and women's versions differ?

Women's versions are typically smaller, lighter and less costly.

What gemstones are used, and how large are they?

A standard set is two rubies, two diamonds and two sapphires. For a size 10 ring each stone is 3 mm and weighs about 10 to 12 points. Our diamonds are VS G at the lowest; VVS D to E and hearts-and-arrows VVS1 D/E are available, the latter at roughly twice the price. We use an SI stone only if it is the customer's own and of great sentimental value.

Can I have diamonds in place of the rubies and sapphires?

Yes. Six diamonds suit the ring well.

Can I order a ring without stones, or with smooth sides?

Yes. The Basic Edition has no stones, and we have made the ring with the sides smoothed instead of set.

What metals are the anchor and letters?

Every anchor is 18k yellow gold. The USN letters are capped in the same white metal as the ring: platinum on a platinum ring, palladium on a palladium ring. This can be changed on request.

What is palladium, and what platinum do you use?

Palladium is a white metal priced between sterling silver and 18k gold. Our platinum is PT950, a different metal from 18k gold; another grade can be used on request.

What are the dimensions of the ring?

In a size 10 the ring is 4.4 mm thick at the top and 1.5 mm at the bottom, 17.5 mm wide at the top and 8.75 mm at the bottom; the anchor is 15.3 mm from top to bottom. In a size 10 1/2 in 18k it weighs a little more than one ounce.

What if I advance in rank?

We will replace your emblem with the new one and refinish the ring to new condition for a nominal charge.

Can I supply my own gold?

As a matter of policy we use only newly refined gold. Old or scrap gold risks casting problems, pitting and porosity, and has at times meant starting over.

Is there a ring for women Chiefs, or a pendant?

Yes. The female Chief ring is made in three styles, including two more feminine designs, and the Chief's emblem is also made as a pendant in two sizes.

Is there a Master Chief ring?

Yes. It was made at the request of Chiefs who asked for one, as were the Senior Chief and Submariner editions.

How long does a ring take?

Our most recently stated lead time is four to six weeks; at busier times we have quoted six to eight. New badges and insignia take longer. Please order well ahead of your date; we can occasionally accommodate a rush.

Where can I buy the ring?

Only from us. It is not sold in jewelry stores, and we limit production to about fifty rings a year.

How is payment handled, and what does it cost beyond the ring?

We accept personal check, bank wire and PayPal. There is no charge for checks or wires; checks need time to clear. PayPal fees are passed on at our cost, and credit card transactions carry a 2.5% charge. There is no sales tax in Oregon. Earlier price lists included USPS Registered Priority Mail; the most recent lists shipping and insurance separately.

Can I pay in installments?

Yes. We can divide the price into three or more equal monthly payments without interest, and ship the ring when the balance is paid.

Ordering

Every ring is made to order and to your exact size, and is priced by quotation. The price depends on the size and weight of your ring and on the metals market at the time, so legacy price lists are a guide only.

To request a quote, write to Bob Brucker with your ring size, a starting date and a delivery date, your preferred method of payment, and the configuration you have in mind or your price range. For a custom design, include as much detail as you can, and send photographs as JPEG files.

Please order well in advance of a pinning, retirement or other deadline. Our most recently stated lead time is four to six weeks, and new badges or insignia need more. Group inquiries are welcome.

If you write from a .gov address and do not hear back within a day, our reply may have been blocked; please give us a personal address or telephone.

In-house financing

We accept cash, personal check, bank wire and PayPal.

No-interest in-house financing is available: the price can be divided into three or more equal monthly installments, and the ring is sent when the balance is paid. Please contact Bob for details.

Mess & command fundraising

A masterpiece CPO ring with benefits. We work with charitable organizations to help them raise funds through our rings and jewelry.

If your organization would like to discuss a fundraising program, please contact Bob Brucker directly.

Made for shipmates

One-of-a-kind service commissions.

Pinning season, retirement, a promotion

Tell us the date. We will tell you honestly if we can meet it.